I’ve been in Sydney for 3 days now. I wish I had my Fitbit with me. The amount of stairs I’ve climbed and the distances I have walked must be something impressive. Right now though I’m sitting on Bondi beach waiting for a surf lesson to start.
Im not sure what possessed me to sign up, but I did. And now I’m here, knowing I can swim, but know I still have a healthy fear of being in water that is deeper than I am tall. Maybe though I’ll find some inner strength that comes from learning to conquer the water and use it as a tool.
We’ll see. The ocean is light blue and clear. I don’t know how warm the water is yet, but the air is like a cool summer day. One of those days where you could get away with shorts or pants depending upon your mood. I can’t imagine what summer is like. Its winter here and as an Oregonian this feels like a wonderful day at the beach.
First step and the water was cold. About 10 steps later it felt cool but warm enough. Lying flat out on the board, toes over the end, you paddle forward as the wave starts to push. Then you keep paddling to get in front of the wave. Press up, step back foot then front, knees bent. Lean forward for speed. Then keep your weight centered as the water rolls underneath you propelling you forward.
Surfing went well, I caught a few waves and road them back to the beach. It was definitely fun and worth an afternoon down on Bondi Beach. Biggest surprise? How tired my arms got. Paddling is a lot harder than it looks! But so worth it, hello gorgeous Pacific Ocean!